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Heaven’s Ditch: God, Gold and Murder on the Erie Canal: Book Review

by BravelyBohemian

I am excited to review Heaven’s Ditch: God, Gold and Murder on the Erie Canal, by Jack Kelly, a fascinating look at the building and impact of the Erie Canal on American history, commerce and expansion.

Book Review_Erie Canal_ Heaven's Ditch by Jack Kelly

Growing Up Near the Erie Canal

Having grown up in central New York, we learned about the Erie Canal, visited places that once were part of the canal and played along parts of the Erie Canal that still existed. We visited the Erie Canal Village and Erie Canal Museum. We rode in a packet boat pulled by mules and sang the “Low Bridge, Everybody Down” song. I still remember parts of it all these years later.

Erie Canal song_Low Bridge Everybody Down
The Most famous song about the Erie Canal, Low Bridge, Everybody Down

The Erie Canal is just part of Upstate New York culture, and we are pretty darn proud of it. Construction of the Erie Canal began in 1817 and completed in 1825, so we are in the middle of celebrating its bicentennial. Surveying of the land began in 1808 and according to Jack Kelly’s research, the terrain was such wilderness, the surveyor, James Geddes, had to take a team of people with him just to rough cut a path to measure and place his survey markers.

Building the Erie Canal

Canals were very common all over Europe, but in the early 1800s, a revolutionary idea, especially in America. Ridiculed as “Clinton’s Ditch” after New York Governor Dewitt Clinton, many felt building a canal across New York State was a huge waste of money. Visionaries, however, who saw how much the Appalachian mountains along the Eastern part of the United States made it difficult for Western expansion, were interested in the curious break in the mountains in upstate New York near Albany. The idea was if a canal could connect the Hudson River, which was deep enough for seafaring ships to move between New York City and Albany, with points to the west, goods and people could be transported easily and affordably. Vast lands to the west were ideal for farming and feeding the growing number of people living in cities along the Eastern seaboard if the cost of transporting such supplies could be reduced.

The story of how the Erie Canal was designed and built is such a tale of American aspiration and ingenuity. If you’ve ever taken a drive across New York State, you will notice how diverse the terrain. New York was once covered by glaciers that receded creating mountains and hills laced with lakes and rivers, ravines and waterfalls, while the middle of the state just south of the Lake Ontario is relatively flat and swampy. Trying to navigate East-West even today can be tedious depending on the weather, as anyone knows who’s been caught in a rain or snow storm along the New York State Thruway. So imagine trying to create a waterway flat enough to connect the Hudson River with Lake Erie, an area that spans over 360 miles. The terrain actually rises around 600 feet between the banks of the Hudson River and the shores of Lake Erie. This meant building locks and aqueducts throughout the canal to make it feasible by boat.

Erie Canal drawing showing survey of terrain differences between the Hudson River and Lake Erie.

The engineers taking on the Erie Canal project had little to no experience in building such structures, so much of the canal was built in a trial and error format. Working on the canal was difficult and dangerous, and used a huge immigrant workforce to complete. According to Kelly, it was the first organized labor force of its kind in America.

Influence of the Erie Canal

Once completed, the cost of travel for people and goods dropped drastically. Towns and cities, like Rochester and Syracuse, burgeoned with population growth and new industries. People moved west in droves hoping to cash in on farming and other businesses that could now use the Erie Canal to ship their goods. Immigrants used the canal to move Westward into Ohio and beyond where land was still cheap and the hopes of keeping their culture and religions intact seemed likely. New York City’s population also grew quickly as an advantageous port city.

View on the Erie Canal_painting_John William Hill
Erie Canal Painting by John William Hill, 1830-1832, showing packet boat being pulled by mules.

What’s most interesting about Jack Kelly’s book is his careful weaving of the stories of some of the famous people who came out of this era of Erie Canal expansion. Having lived most of my life in the Fingerlakes region of central New York State, I had always learned that this area was a hotbed for all sorts of political, religious and moral thinking. People like Fredrick Douglas and Harriet Tubman resided in the area. The anti-slavery movement was huge here, as was the Underground Railroad. The first Women’s rights convention was held in Seneca Falls in 1848. Women’s Right to Vote leaders Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Susan B Anthony and Matilda Joslyn Gage all lived in Central New York. The Mormons and Church of Latter Day Saints were founded by Joseph Smith in Palmyra, NY. Other forms of Christianity expanded greatly through upstate New York in this same time period. The Masons and anti-Masonic movement got its strength from this region.

Erie Canal Pottery_Staffordshire
This Staffordshire Pottery commemorated the opening of the Erie Canal in 1825. From the collections of the Rochester Museum & Science Center.

After reading Heaven’s Ditch, I finally understood WHY all of this came to be in and around Central New York. The Erie Canal made it possible. Points along the Erie Canal made it one of the easiest places to travel to, and affordably. The canal was used by the Underground Railroad to move escaped slaves along to Canada. Transportation enabled political people to meet and share information. Religious evangelists, like Charles Finney, arrived by the canal to bring huge tent revivals the area. Saving souls was big business at the time of American expansion.

I will say no more, but to recommend getting your hands on a copy of Heaven’s Ditch: God, Gold and Murder on the Erie Canal, by Jack Kelly. I will leave the murder part and some of the other more interesting characters up to you to discover. His writing makes the book a fast, interesting read, and if you didn’t already recognize so many of the people by name, you’d wonder if some of the characters are fiction. Heavens Ditch is the best book I have read about what life was like along the Erie Canal in the 1800s.


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Filed Under: Books, History, Reviews Tagged With: Books, Fingerlakes Region, History, Reviews

Lessons I Have Learned From Being a Country Mouse, City Mouse and Suburban Mouse

by BravelyBohemian

Being a Country Mouse_City Mouse_Suburban Mouse

I consider myself very fortunate to have grown up as a country kid in the gorgeous Finger Lakes Region of Central New York State. It’s probably why I have such a bohemian lifestyle now. If you’ve never been to the Finger Lakes, it’s a mostly rural part of the state filled with 10 long lakes that look like fingers. The lakes are surrounded by rolling hills containing hundreds of wineries, bed-and-breakfasts, farms, orchards, gorges, waterfalls and picturesque little towns filled with restaurants, shops, colleges, and museums. Not far away, you will also find the cities of Syracuse, Rochester, and Buffalo, the remnants of the famous Erie Canal, Lake Ontario to the North, Lake Erie to the West. And of course, Niagara Falls and Canada are nearby.

Fingerlakes Skaneateles Lake Winter Sunset
Winter Sunset, Skaneateles, NY in the Fingerlakes Region

Growing Up as a Country Mouse

Growing up, we lived in the middle of nowhere on ten acres of land surrounded by fields and woods. We had an incredible view of the surrounding hills. My dad always wanted to try farming as a hobby, so he planted a huge garden and as well as an orchard of over 500 apple trees. We made our own Maple Syrup in Winter. We ice skated on frozen ponds. My folks even caved and let us get horses, rabbits, cats and a dog. My childhood was pretty idyllic.

White Rabbit and Karen McMahon in the 1980s.
I am about 8 in this picture.

Over the years, I have lived in the country, in cities, and in suburbia, as well as traveled extensively around the U.S. Living in the country is by far my favorite. However, each place I have resided in has given me lessons, memories, and insight.

Living in the City

Most people have no idea, but my parents grew up in the Bronx, so the vibe of New York City is quite ingrained in me. We have had ancestors living in New York City since the early 1700s. Yes, pre-revolutionary times! So there’s some definite culture that has been passed down through the generations.

While I have never lived in New York City, we certainly visited often while I was a kid. I feel at one with the essence of New York as soon as I set foot in Manhattan. I love talking to my parents about their memories of growing up in the city in the 1930s through 1950s, and their many visits in the 1960s through 1990s. By the 1970s, they had my sister and I in tow, and we often visited the city for my Birthday over Memorial Day Weekend. I have many happy memories visiting the Bronx Zoo, The Metropolitan Museum of Art and the American Museum of Natural History, wandering through Macy’s, and sitting in Central Park. I remember my fascination with all of the tall buildings, the taxis everywhere, Grand Central Station, the Subways and the general intense hustle and bustle of the city.

Times Square NYC
Times Square, New York City

I did choose to go to college in an urban setting and lived in Troy, NY. My first job in state politics took me on a daily commute into Albany, NY. I remember at first wondering if I would ever get used to the constant drumming noises of city life. Even at night, I could still hear the sounds of the highway nearby, police sirens, and sometimes gunshots (the neighborhood was not the safest). And of course, I lived near the path where drunken students loudly stumbled home from the local bars in the wee hours.

I learned how to use the bus system to commute. It was often simpler than hiking the several blocks to my car and then trying to find parking at the other end when I got to work. I even remember the smell of the pollution coming from the buses, trucks and all those cars on the streets and highways.

While I eventually became comfortable with city living, it was a far cry from the way I grew up out in the country! It took some adjustment time. My dorm room looked out onto a historic park across the street. I was forever thankful to look out on those trees and paths and set foot in the park on the way to professors’ offices. I think even then, I longed for open space.

Living in Suburbia

When I met and married my husband, we bought a house in suburbia. At the time, we had a thriving family business and we were traveling regularly. So my criteria were that the house was 1. Comfortable and cushy; 2. In an area where we could easily sell if we needed to move elsewhere for work; and 3. CLOSE to the airport because my father-in-law always insisted on booking us on the early flights. (We manifested all three including being only 15 minutes from the airport).

While our home and neighborhood are very lovely, I started calling our location “Suburban Hell” and “Anywhere U.S.” I have come to the conclusion that I prefer either living in a city or living in the country. I just don’t care for the in-between of suburban living.

It’s been hard to identify why my soul is just not completely relaxed here. I think in a city, there is constant noise which creates a particular on-going rhythm. In suburbia, the neighborhoods have a look like we are living in a community, but after 16 years, we only know a handful of the several hundred neighbors in our development. I am also very energetically sensitive to the world, so my higher self-tunes into the shutting of car doors, conversations or arguments of people walking by, vehicles coming and going, lawn mowers, phones ringing, dogs barking, etc. For me, the noises and movements are just separate enough to be distracting and energy draining.


Becoming a Country Mouse Again

That being said, we are considering moving into the country again. My husband, Al, grew up in the mountains of Northern Pennsylvania and remembers many hours of happily playing in the woods with his brothers and friends. He always feels a sense of peace when he visits his childhood town and the surrounding mountains. That’s how I feel too when we walk around my parents’ property.

Central_New_York_Fingerlakes_View
The view where I grew up.

We are casually starting to look for a new home on the other side of Syracuse from where we are now. We have our eyes peeled for a house that has personality and is surrounded by a chunk of land. We are hoping for minimal neighbors, a very private yard, and land ideally consisting of woods or fields.

And of course, we would love a view of the rolling hills found in the region. Central New York sunsets can be amazing! I think more than anything, I am hoping for true soul-deep peace and quiet around me. And I know that I am most happy when I can set my feet on grass, be surrounded by old trees and breathe in fresh air. (Can you tell I am an introvert?)

While my husband keeps asking whether I want to own horses again (probably not for the sheer amount of work involved), I am very thankful for the experience our parents gave us to appreciate our wide-open surroundings. Life is short and it is important to live where your soul is most happy.


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Filed Under: Adventuring, Spirit Tagged With: Fingerlakes Region, Spiritual Growth, Travel

Meet Karen…

https://bravelybohemian.com/meet-karen
Wife, Crazy Cat Lady, Museum Junkie, History Buff, Entrepreneur, Crafter, Collector, Book Enthusiast, Project Runway Addict, Holistic Gypsy, Adventurer, Steampunker, Literal Tree Hugger and All-Around Fun Gal

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